Monday, August 24, 2009

My Siberian Has Diarrohea

100 e 1 cebiche (o ceviche)

COURSE HELD Nation's cultural heritage

The most famous Peruvian dish and elected as the "national dish" is the Cebiche that takes place with very fresh fish fillet, cut into cubes and cooked with raw juice lemon, thinly sliced \u200b\u200bonion and a pinch of spicy aji, the name of a particular and powerful Peruvian chili.

Elsewhere in the Pacific coast until arriving in Oceania there are other types of Cebiche, but none can compare with the Peruvian whom are, inter alia, fifty versions.

course all the restaurants in Lima are racing to prepare the best Cebiche the city, which is also a great undertaking, given the competition they face with the Japanese Peruvians.

Twenty years ago they made a fashion Cebiche "al dente", inspired by the raw Sahimi, today this has changed in the normal fashion with the variant called "Tiradito" that is not prepared with onions, cubes of fish are more but looks great with different sauces and tasty.

Cebiche Some add a touch of the "sillau, soy sauce, mustard add some more daring, with pureed aji yellow or lettuce, fish broth, white wine, a few drops of milk, these connoisseurs of good taste not only merely to do with the fish, but they the dish garnished with all kinds of seafood on the coast of Peru, such as shrimps, prawns, octopus, clams, mussels, squid, sea snails, sea urchins.

It can also serve hot, fried, and always accompanied by stimulating spicy aji.

We will see, along with the most renowned chefs of Lima, the various cebiches and how none of them is better than another. Simply all form one big winner with the name: the cebiche peruano.

We're going to find, to start, Humberto Sato, maker of kitchen Nikkey, the Japan-Peruvian fusion cuisine.

Humberto Sato
Costanera Av Del Ejercito 700

421 Miraflores, Lima








Question: How changed the recipe of your memories from today's recipe?
Answer: mainly in color, no? Today cebiche is .. white.
D: was yellow before?
A: It was yellow aji amarillo paste.
D: With what company?
A: With camote and choclo. Even with potatoes and choclo
Q: What year we talking about?
R: 50, 51, thereabouts.
Q: And the current method, simply mix the fish with lemon and serve?
R: let soak a long time. Was held in a tray, right? And of course the fish "threw" the sauce and the sauce was called "leche de tiger (tiger's milk).
D: And what is your "truth" today? How to prepare yourself for the cebiche?
R: It 's very difficult to answer, because ... there are different tastes.
D: I modify the question: What you should do in preparation of cebiche?
R: The basis: the more the fish is fresh, the better. The more fresh lemon, the better. Therefore we should not use fish that is not fresh. Also, I could not tell if this is or is not, but I like having its leaf salad.
In cebiche everything has its own justification. The lettuce does not have a decorative function in reality, but a function for refreshing the palate. The camote has the function of balance, one while eating said: acid, acid, nitric acid, bang a little sweet (and accentuates the flavor), and also a cebiche is pure protein and the camote and add the part choclo carbohydrate necessary to balance the dish.
Q: What was to make your cebiche so famous?
R: Look, I do not complicate your life, or the accomplice to the diner is not it? My cebiche one could say that is the most simple, does not taste aggressively. Once it is ready, add the fish stock. It 's a taste soft, not loud or aggressive.
Q: And what is the cebiche they like you?
R: Well, I put on the sillao (soy sauce). It will completely change the flavor. However, it is important, it continues to be cebiche.
D: Sarebbe come dire che tu non sei peruano, no?
R: ahah certo, ahah, proprio così.

Esistono varie tendenze, il cebiche cambiò, si modernizzò, si adattò al gusto della gente, si preparò crudo. In Lima ci sono varie persone che si attribuiscono il merito di avere inventato il cebiche moderno.

Una di queste è Pedro Solari, "Pedrito" per i peruani. Sulla breccia da 85 anni ma ancora vispo e gran chef.

Pedro Solari
Jr. Cahuide 995
Jesus Maria, Lima







D:
Il cebiche we eat now is the cebiche that you were?
R: Yeah, sure.
D: And ..?
R: The "fish instantly." Cut immediately and you instantly.
D: But how did this method?
R: Look, we were at sea, catch a roballo. I opened up, cut it and made the cebiche. And ate it instantly. I was in Lima, and the proposed way.

But there are others who seek to outsource the recipe. Only simple ingredients for cebiche base. The rest will depend on the skill of the person who prepares e, chiaramente, dalla freschezza degli ingredienti.

Don Cucho è considerato il maestro del cebiche tra tutti i cebicheros del Peru, ed esperto tra le moltissime varietà di pesce che uno può incontrare nel mare del Peru.

Cucho La Rosa
Hacienda Casa Blanca
Pachacamac, Lima
Calle 8 lote 14 – A







D:
Quale è il re dei pesci per il cebiche?
R: Il re lo abbiamo proprio qui: il lenguado. Ma anche tutto il pesce fresco, immacolatamente fresco, va bene per il cebiche. Tutto il processo per cebiche preparation must be done right now. start with the onion. Red.
D: There is a reason to wash the fish with the onion?
R: E 'to remove "force" the onion, pepper, however, transferred in the same time allows the fish, subtly. And then the aji limo. I like to use it in different colors, yellow, red, to brighten the dish.
And now is a trick that we use for some time, and that gives a special dimension to cebiche. Ice. Before you add the lemon. Ice should be removed, it takes a few seconds in, and lemon, squeezed and should not be cut even before participating in the feast of cebiche. camote morado, camote amarillo, boiled choclo ... ready. Two minutes to prepare cebiche the best in the world.

Any fresh fish is good for a good cebiche. Even if the teachers agree that the lenguado continue to be a star.

Javier Wong is one of the most famous chefs in Lima. But if you do not have the exact address, you can never find it. His restaurant, called Sankuay, no signs and his door is always closed. It should be open for play. But behind this door you can meet the real magic.

There is no menu, Wong will give you a look and let you know what it is about to serve.

Chez Wong
Leon Garcia Jr. 114
Santa Catalina, La Victoria, Lima





D:
what I propose today?
R: cebiche a special with pineapple.
Aji Limo, pineapple and peanuts, and add a bit 'of parsley. Peanuts can give you some balance, and pineapples melts completely. Here he is, ready, complete with the scent of freshness.

Tolerance is a great virtue of Peruvian cuisine, accepting and merging together to build something wonderful. Simultaneously, the Peruvian

, depending on the region, say no! In cebiche not use this ingredient! We use this one! The limen, for example, will argue to the bitter end that should serve cebiche with camote camote and nothing but, but ... we're going to find it is not always the case. In

Avenida Garzon, we find the restaurant "Don Fernando", specializing in the cuisine of northern Peru, and its chef, Fernando Vera.


Don Fernando Vera Fernando Garzon
Av 1788
Jesus Maria, Lima







D: The first variant
cebiche between the North and the South?
R: E 'the aji Moceri, Moceri on. But even the aji cerezo of Chiclayo.
D: In preparation we have a difference, right? Aji different depending on the area where the North is preparing, but also with regard to the fish?
A: Yes We use the Annex Tojo, has an extraordinary meat. And then the race, only washed with sea water. And finally, the king of the Pacific: the mourique. And then the thing that is common to all and that has no equal in the north: the best lemon del Peru. Facciamo anche cebiche di conchitas (frutti di mare), granchio, ed ogni cebiche ha la sua consistenza particolare a seconda del pesce che viene utilizzato.

Finiamo il tour con il più grande chef attualmente vivente del Peru ed ambasciatore della cucina peruana nel mondo: Gastón Acurio.

Astrid&Gastón
Calle Cantuarias 175
Miraflores, Lima








D:
ci mostreresti la preparazione di un buon cebiche?
R: Certo! Abbiamo questi ajies, i cerezos di lambajece, l’aji mocero, wonderful, of Trujillo, we have these ajies of the Amazon forest, never seen before, and then the aji charrapita el'aji pipiemono.

I am in Lima el'aji natural here to do a good cebiche is the aji limo. We have red, yellow, Moradi, but now we use the red silt that is a bit 'that is the aji in Lima. Ok?
Besides, what fish? We use the corvina. We who have grown up and have lived in Lima, we have always used the corvina, because this fish is naturally occurring in the coastal outskirts of Lima, both north and south.

And for this lemon, quello del nord. Il nord del Peru ha una condizione geografica e climatica tale per cui il loro limone ha un sapore praticamente insostituibile. E voglio accompagnare questa corvina con questi altri prodotti. Questi calamari sono stati pescati in Raura, e poi le conchas bianche (molluschi).

Specificare la dimensione dei pezzetti di pesce, più grandi, più piccoli, bhe qui stiamo entrando nel regno del gusto personale. Prendiamo una ciotola grande di vetro, mettiamo i calamari, le conchas, e ora vi insegno un segreto che ho appreso molto tempo fa.

Voglio dargli l’aroma e l’aroma dell’aji limo è inconfondibile, I take a piece and rub vigorously on the bottom of the bowl because the flavor remains and is transferred to the fish. add a pinch of salt, and start to squeeze the lemon.


Another secret that I taught Don Cuche, concerns the lemon. If one squeezes too, automatically transfers the bitter white part in the juice of the lemon juice. The lemon should be squeezed lightly, without destroying the outside. Then red onion, another secret: you must not be stingy with the onion, remove the core to remove the bitterness and let the aroma.

One shot, two, ready! Here is the basis, and from here you can add what you like, and do not have to hear those who say to you - not to put this, did not put that - they are mistaken. If you like ginger, put him a bit 'ginger if you like garlic, put him a bit' of garlic, if you like the culantro, add it, also applies to the celery or any other flavor. Experience! Enjoy!


This is the universe of cebiche peruano today, but cebiche has an ancient history. The cebiche
comes from afar, not in space but in time. The lemons were imported to South America after Columbus discovered the New World, and then, the ingredients that were used were different.

Starting from the Mochica, around the year 100 of our calendar, ancient people of northern Peru. Great fishing, had seen fit to combine the fresh fish with the fermented juice of Tumba. I no longer exist but the Mochica Tumbo yes, and (of course) a particular taste.
Slightly sweet, it looks like (very vaguely) to our melon, but not so sweet. Usually "drink", or prepare for amazing smoothies refreshing of Tumba.

few centuries later, in 1400 advanced, while the Inca empire, but the fish was marinated with chicha.

The chicha was and is an alcoholic beverage produced by fermenting non-distilled corn. Was used for libations, which in medicine (as an anesthetic), which propitiatory offerings to the sun god: it was thought that the corn were the tears of the sun because of its golden color, and then was offered a drink which was elaborated from maize.

During this time, off the coast of Peru, as well as chicha already added salt and aji marinade for fish.

With the conquistadors arrived in South America also the onion and lemon, and the latter made it possible to shorten the time needed to prepare this dish. But before we get

the recipe today itself we have a final result: the orange.

Wives (more) of the conquistadors, the fish were macerated with aji, salt and sour oranges, and was called "sibech" which in Arabic means "lunch acid.

Regarding the etymology of the word cebiche, there are several "schools" of thought:

  • English School, suggests that the word may derive from cebiche "sikbag" identifying a method of preserving food with liquid acids such as vinegar (hence also the English escabeche or scabeccio Liguria.
  • School peruana, derive the word from the Quechua word cebiche "Siwichi" which means fresh fish or fish tender.
  • mixed schools, presumes that the two words "sikbag" and "siwichi" merged in the current cebiche after the invasion of the Spaniards.
  • One modern historian, Juan José Vega proposed the origin from the Arabic word "sibech", the view over the oranges.
  • Finally, the school of fishermen: the derivation of the word as a diminutive of cebiche "cebo" or any food used as bait for fishing. Fishermen Arabs and later Europeans were prepared to eat the bait if they had a fruitless fishing, and they used to "cook" the bait with its lemon.
There is another reference to
cebo, or the bait: it was the "carnada" or the bait that fishermen were using the home on the coast negra peruana. When the master of the boat said it was time to eat, shared "the bait caught" (ie small fish to use as bait, the cebo), which was raw and had, say, a "strong odor" , then the fishermen added lemon to cook, aji, garlic, onions and salt to make it more enjoyable.

And after this walk in the world of the Peruvian national dish, I can only say:


Aprovecho Good! (Enjoy)

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