A look in the menus of restaurants or homes today, in Liguria tomatoes seem to exist forever. Instead we arrived very late or rather later, and again after it was imposed on our plates.
He began to be grown only as ornamental plants, as in most of the rest of Italy, and up to half of the 800 was not used in the Ligurian cooking if not, rarely, in the form of "salad" (famous is become the heart of ox Albenga outside of our region, over the years only 80 of 1900). When
GB Ratto, in 1865, wrote and printed the cook Genovese, tomato appeared for the first time in alcune ricette del libro, che risentiva, comunque, di notevoli influenze toscane.
Ma fino ai primi del '900 la cucina ligure era di fatto una cucina sostanzialmente "in bianco", come si è mantenuta in molte sue ricette ancora oggi.
Come ho già avuto modo di dire, la cucina ligure attuale si è sviluppata come contaminazione, nel corso dei secoli, di altre cucine, sia la piemontese, soprattutto nella riviera di ponente ed a Genova, sia con le cucine, i metodi e gli ingredienti che sono arrivati via mare nel corso dei secoli.
Gli influssi orientali si sono fatti sentire dapprima con le colonie genovesi in Crimea, ed i contatti con i popoli mongoli, ed in seguito con le varie ondate arabe che si have followed in the Mediterranean.
many preparations that we derived from the east today with good reason can be defined in Liguria, as a result of further development of methods and contamination of ingredients on our territory, and among them some of our sauces, sauces or should I say, the most famous.
So we make a little journey into the world of Ligurian sauce, as they used and how proposals are still at the table, all, strictly, no tomato.
All sauces proposals below do not have an encoding is determined as well as ingredients that dose, as individual households often amend them to ensure their own use. So, we reported that ingredients and dosages maggiormente trovano riscontro nella media delle ricette.
Nota: non verrà presentato il pesto, in quanto
già se ne è lungamente discusso .
Agiadda (Agliata) Zona di diffusione: Vessalico, tutta la valle Arroscia, entroterra ponentino, con varianti in tutta la Liguria fino a Sarzana.
Di questa salsa ne esistono varianti diverse, a seconda se ci si sposta più sulla riviera di ponente che in quella di levante, ed anche il nome cambia da agiadda ad aié.
Degli ingredienti originali, il primo che viene a mancare dirigendosi verso Genova è l'uovo, che rende questa salsa così simile all'aiolì francese.
Its main ingredient, however, is the garlic, and possibly Vessalico, which has organoleptic properties specifically identified.
Sephardic version The preparation starts from simple ingredients but the difficulty lies in the "frame" of the yolk, as in a mayonnaise, is obtained by adding slowly, wire, oil, extra virgin olive oil of course.
Ingredients:
egg yolk 2 cloves of fresh garlic strictly Vessalico (Arroscia)
extra virgin olive oil salt
Preparation:
gets pounded garlic in a mortar until a homogeneous mixture.
Now add a pinch salt, egg yolk, and with great skill in working with the yolk, the oil "flush" (ie making it drop slowly from the spout dell'oliera), until a creamy density.
The sauce should be as "soda" can be cut with a knife.
A variant, always present in the west, is to incorporate the egg yolk but hard, do not mount as seen previously.
egg-free version Arroscia Leaving the Valley, instead of oil is replaced with the vinegar and egg in place, it disappears, the bread, turning the sauce into something different but still similar :
Ingredients: vinegar
garlic bread
dry white wine salt.
Preparation:
you put in a mortar the garlic and bread crumbs and mache.
You add the salt and dilute with vinegar and wine.
The mixture is then boiled for a few minutes, before seasoning.
This sauce can accompany boiled or boiled vegetables, like green beans with garlic typically Genoese, or the cod.
However, there is a recipe a bit 'in particular is used as the liver and the breast of veal, which was one of the parts of the veal consumed typically in Genoa until a few decades ago:
Figaeto in aggiadda
Ingredients: Calves liver
extra virgin olive oil bread
a little stern, or spleen of veal
salt Preparation:
Cut the liver into thin strips and arrange them in a pan after heating oil.
Stir with a wooden spoon the livers and cook over high heat. Before the mortar
the crumb of a good vinegar-soaked bread and a little stern, or calf spleen, bleached first with a quick boil.
Pour the mixture into a bowl and thin with a little more vinegar.
When the liver is almost ready, place it on one side of the pan and pour in the remaining free preparation.
Then mix with a spoon, stirring vigorously for no more than one minute.
Salt to taste when serving. Serve hot.
Marò or Pestùn de fave (broad bean sauce) Area of \u200b\u200bdistribution: Western Liguria
From the sea and more specifically by the Saracens seems to stem this other sauce, made with beans and the bright light green.
The etymology of the word indeed lends itself to two different origins: Mar
one o'clock in Arabic salsa, and the other sailor to sailor, because of this sauce seemed to do with heavy use on boats.
Even in the recipe for this sauce ingredients may vary but la più antica è la seguente.
Ingredienti:
500 g di fave fresche
8 foglie di menta
aglio
olio extravergine di oliva
sale grosso
pepe
aceto.
Dopo aver pulito le fave, liberandole anche della seconda pellicina, si pestano (tradizionalmente) nel mortaio con le foglie di menta, l'aglio e un pizzico di sale grosso.
Pestare bene sino ad ottenere una pasta omogenea. Versare il tutto in una terrina ed aggiungere il pepe ed uno goccio d'aceto.
Diluire con l'olio ed amalgamare fino ad ottenere una consistenza semiliquida.
Esiste una versione più ricca e più moderna, che utilizza anche il pecorino grattugiato e la maggiorana dough.
You can accompany grilled meat or fish, or season of the excellent trenette. It seems that the original use is consumed with goat and sheep roasted.
Machetto (pasta with sardines) Area of \u200b\u200bdistribution: Western Liguria, now throughout Liguria
Even among this sauce originates from the sea, and also has a match in France, pissala povenzale. The source is certainly very old, just think of the Roman garum or Vietnamese nuoc mam derived from the fermentation of small fish.
In the west with this pasta are seasoned focaccia, from which time the pissalandrea or macchetusa, or sardenara a seconda della zona di produzione.
La salsa anticamente veniva composta da sardine, specie le parti di scarto, come la testa, ma anche tutto il pesce, comprese le interiora, mentre al giorno d'oggi alle sardine si preferiscono le acciughe ed è stata modificata dall'introduzione del pomodoro tra gli ingredienti.
La versione originale è questa.
Ingredienti:
500 g di sardine medio piccole
olio di oliva extravergine
sale grosso.
Preparazione: le sardine vengono tritate e disposte in vasi di vetro, mescolando qualche minuto ogni giorno, sino ad ottenere una pasta omogenea. A seconda del grado di fermentazione che si vuole ottenere possono occorrere pochi giorni sino a qualche week.
Machetto When ready, add extra virgin olive oil to soften the taste and help conservation.
With this sauce you prepare delicious canapés are served along with cocktails and hors d'oeuvre, you can flavor breads, pasta fin'anche.
Pesto garlic coverage area: Val Pentemina north of Genoa
Again a sauce made of garlic, but with variations: garlic is added to the oil and the grated cheese a time derived from the local cheeses, ripened, that every family produced for own consumption.
All blends with the cream: once you used the cream of milk, leaving the rest surfaced milk in a large bowl (the enamel bowls), for one night. A variant
a bit 'more acceptable to our modern palates includes the addition of pine nuts and a lower amount of garlic.
is a sauce that traditionally accompanied the polenta. It goes very well but also pens, quarantine and potato ravioli with herbs.
It is not known exactly because of its origin, since the ingredients are the same as pesto, as might have been born without basil pesto, given the lack of it for most of the valley, but it is only a ' hypothesis.
Note that in Tigullio Pesto prescinseua added the soles, or ricotta, or even a bit 'fresh cream.
is also likely to have origins similar to those of "aioli" Provencal garlic-based sauces of Mediterranean Spain (aioli) and Greece (skordhalià).
In practice even this gourmet sauce, like pesto, has small variations, such as lack of brown to the amount of garlic.
difficult to find today, is found almost exclusively in Pentema, a small fraction of the Trebbia, par excellence the country of the World, famous for its museum of rural history and the crib trying to revive the fortunes of a country in state of semi-abandonment.
Ingredients: 2-3 cloves of garlic
two handfuls of pine nuts 50 g of parmesan cheese
two tablespoons of cream (not the sweetened)
30 ml oil
salt to taste Preparation: Grind the
' garlic, without the skins, in a mortar, along with pine nuts.
join the grated Parmesan cheese and a pinch of salt.
Pour the oil and mix with the cream.
Before serving, dilute slightly with water from the pasta. To remember that if you were to increase the garlic sauce gives a much stronger flavor, good will then increase in proportion to the other ingredients.
Sarsa de noxious (walnut sauce) coverage area: All of Liguria
ancient Persia was already widespread use of this sauce that is still present in Eastern and Balkan cuisine.
was presumably at the time of the Genoese Republic, which transported by sea, if not the sauce, the recipe definitely.
The "SARS de noxious" then made a long journey before reaching us from where he was soon used to create a great dressing for a creamy, ivory colored with a sweet taste which clearly recognizes the taste walnut.
pansoti Ideal for seasoning (herb ravioli, tipici liguri) dalla caratteristica forma triangolare, gli gnocchi di castagne, ed altro.
Anche questa salsa, come il pesto, presenta delle piccole variazioni nella letteratura e nella pratica gastronomica, come l'assenza di pinoli o la presenza a piacere della maggiorana.
Ingredienti:
250 g di gherigli di noci già puliti
un cucchiaio (g 25) di quagliata (prescinseua)
50 g di pinoli
tre cucchiai d'olio extravergine di oliva
la mollica di due panini
sale.
Preparazione:
pelare i gherigli di noci, dopo averli scottati in acqua bollente. Inzuppare la mollica del pane nell'acqua o nel latte e strizzarla: ciò impedisce che la noce formi olio e renda amara the sauce.
Put the walnuts in a mortar, the breadcrumbs, garlic, salt and pine nuts, and for those who want the marjoram.
Chop well and pour into a bowl where the mixture is diluted with milk curdled, drained of its whey and oil.
Mix ingredients until they are all well blended and the sauce will look like a cream.
Sarsa de pigneu (pine nut sauce) Area of \u200b\u200bdistribution: Genoa, now a large part of Liguria
addition to the walnut sauce, white sauce, ivory and other more delicate flavor lends itself to the first for seasoning lasagna and pansoti: the sauce with pine nuts.
do not know when it has evolved and since it was introduced in our kitchen, but given the ingredients, the sauce could again be very old.
Ingredients: 250 g
a tablespoon of pine nuts (25 g) of curd (prescinseua)
a tablespoon of olive oil
the two rolls of bread soaked in milk
salt.
Preparation:
Crush the pine nuts in a mortar together with the breadcrumbs. Adjust salt and add the other ingredients.
Mix everything together adding the oil to soften the whole.
E 'should be noted, as up to the 800, in Liguria, on the tables of the people, the oil that was used was walnut oil or nuts, because olive oil was too expensive for local use and preferred to sell outside the territory. From this use, perhaps, have evolved as the two sauces just proposals.
Sauce kernels Area of \u200b\u200bdistribution: the hinterland of Savona
I make an exception for this particular sauce, since the presence of tomato is scarce, is a most recent addition, since originally the sauce prepared smooth and tomatoes.
Outside the hinterland of Savona is not known, and then present it with pleasure.
Its taste is delicately flavored and the color is golden sauce is a typical country Balestrino.
E' ottimo con le tagliatelle casalinghe, e ricorda una cucina semplice, frutto dell'utilizzo dei prodotti che la natura dei boschi circostanti offre, con l'aggiunta di soli pochi altri ingredienti, atti più ad amalgamare che a dare sapore.
Anche l'origine di questo sugo è più orientale come usanza, visti i gherigli delle noci utilizzate e le mandorle.
Ingredienti:
1 tazza di gherigli di noce, mandorle, e nocciole sgusciate
2 spicchi d'aglio
2 fette di pane raffermo
olio
conserva di pomodoro q. b. (molto, molto poca, 1 cucchiaio è
sufficiente)
Preparazione:
Far soffriggere in una casseruola, ben unta, le noci, le mandorle, le nocciole insieme agli spicchi d'aglio e al pane raffermo spezzettato.
Pestare il tutto nel mortaio, riporre quindi nuovamente nella casseruola con un cucchiaio di conserva di pomodoro, allungata con mezzo bicchiere di acqua tiepida.
Far cuocere a fiamma molto bassa sino a quando l'olio si separerà dal resto.
Condirci tagliatelle o pasta fatta in casa. Volendo rispettare filologicamente la tradizione, non aggiungere il pomodoro.
Salsa di carciofi Zona di diffusione: ponente e Genova
Si pensa che l'origine di questa salsa sia il ponente ligure, anche se a Genova è abbastanza diffusa, ed inoltre Genova acquistava i carciofi direttamente dalla Sardegna, once.
is used to flavor homemade pasta or lasagna.
Ingredients: artichokes
3 1 / 2 onion
1 / 2 cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon flour
parsley 1 clove of garlic oil
salt Preparation: Brown the chopped onion and
's garlic in oil, add the artichokes, cut thin, so a higher flame add the white wine and a tablespoon of flour and let evaporate.
Lower the heat and cook with salt, a quarter of an hour.
before serving chop the parsley over pasta with a drizzle of olive oil.
We end this series with a sauce used with the first fish, a preparation which is still called "fish paste SAE".
Pasta fish sae Area of \u200b\u200bdistribution: the whole of Liguria
The preparation is simple: melt a bit 'of anchovies in oil on low heat, without sizzle, in quantities adjusted according to the diners.
When the anchovies are transformed into a thick sauce, like a paste, add chopped garlic and parsley, which has very little star on the fire so it does not bake.
You Drain the pasta and season with the sauce, excellent tonic for a day of work.
