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A qualcuno piace "hot"! Le rotte delle spezie (parte decima)

In the eighteenth century began to codify the first collections of popular cuisine, no longer only reserved for the nobility, those who later will be called cookbooks cooking "traditional". It will be necessary, however, wait for the 800 and 900 because the recipes begin to stabilize and assumed a truly local in character.

Meanwhile, the food that came from America began to take hold slowly and with them the spices, especially South America. Among them there are the chili, because of its easy cultivation even in regions south of Europe, and given the low cost of cultivation, they soon came to support the pepper, if not to replace it, People in the kitchen.

Gia in the 700 dietetics had ceased to look to the past, and the hot spices of the East had begun to lose their charm. The only one that should not be stopped, but, rather, an increase over time until today, pepper is the spice that is still the most traded worldwide.

very briefly summarize 5000 years of history of spices, we saw how they went through in everyday earlier, and for a long time, through the use derived from medical and religious philosophies of antiquity, peeping into the kitchen only a later, to get to the explosion of flavors in the late Middle Ages and regressing back into the modern age.

The study of the two researchers, who gave birth to this brief tour, associated with the consumption of spices to their antiseptic properties, which undoubtedly is present, and argues that they are used mainly for this reason.

Probably, however, that reason alone is not enough to justify the enormous spread of the spices have had over the millennia, as at the local level are no spices or herbs that perform this function very well, and in many cases have antiseptic properties far better than the imported spices.

Limiting the analysis to cookbooks cooking "traditional" little more than a century of life, irrespective of movements of peoples, their customs, history and economy of the spices in a global, binding strongly to study a historical period very close and not sufficiently representative.

Another aspect concerns the distribution of the use of spices depending on the latitude of a certain course: much greater in the tropics and much less in the northern or southern, associating this parameter only to a greater shelf life of foods because of the heat and humidity.

to this unique approach can be moved two objections, both valid.
in the tropics is present the vast majority of plant species on our planet, and in proportion, so even the majority of spices and herbs that are used in the kitchens of those regions.

The evolution of human communities, from gatherers to farmers, has incorporated in the kitchen foods that were first collected and further cultivated in the territory of residence, and of course these foods are part of the spices and herbs, to an extent greater than greater is their local presence.

The second consideration is the geographical development of large companies in the past, all born in regions where the spices (especially food) were abundant and have millennia had time to digest certain flavors and export to and beyond the borders of their empires.

In conclusion, I believe that the question "why you use the spices in the kitchen", it is not possible to give a clear answer, found in the 800 recipes and 900, but it will be found in all aspects of economic competition , religious, philosophical, medical, cultural, we have seen during this brief history.

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A qualcuno piace "hot"! Le rotte delle spezie (parte nona)

The eastern end of the monopoly

From 1200 onwards, there was a progressive increase in imports of spices on the one hand, and a parallel decrease in their price on the other.

Proponents of the depreciation of the spices will be two important historical moments: the birth of the Maritime Republics around the twelfth century and the opening of the route to India by the Portuguese at the beginning of '500.

For centuries the Arabs (and Persians to the north) and the Indians were the absolute owners of the spice trade, but from about 1200 to begin to split their profits with Venice and Genoa, one for the Eastern Mediterranean and the other to the west and the area of \u200b\u200bthe Black Sea

From this point on, the Arabs will lose more ground in the monopoly of trade and will be overtaken by the merchants Jews and Muslims West, and finally by the Christians.

When the maritime republics began to decline, around the sixteenth century, the Portuguese tried to install their monopoly on all trade with India by sea, being able to establish direct routes around Africa at the end of '400 .

With various systems of the Portuguese strongholds, works on all the way from Africa to the coasts of Japan, will attempt to keep prices high, but will still be in competition with the east and that will give up completely in front of the English and Dutch commercial fleets century later.

In London the price of the pepper halves in the very moment when Britain takes possession of the final trade routes to India and the European Centre for importing spices went from Venice to Amsterdam.

The moment in which the economic and spices will become easily accessible to all, and could thus be greatly increased use, we are witnessing in Europe at a completely opposite phenomenon: almost completely disappear by the Treaties of cuisine of the rich bourgeoisie and the nobility.

France, immediately after the Renaissance, stands as a guide of elegance and refinement in all the European courts and immediately begins to dictate his style in the kitchen. Style that will be copied as a synonym of good taste at the table from other nations.

Se si vanno a leggere i trattati di cucina francesi editi tra il 1550 ed il 1650 ci si rende conto che il gusto dei francesi a tavola cambia profondamente in questo secolo. Delle spezie orientali che infarcivano i piatti medioevali prima e rinascimentali dopo, vengono più o meno abolite zafferano, zenzero, galanga, pepe lungo, pepe di Guinea (i famosi “grani di paradiso” medioevali), il macis, il lentisco ed altre ancora. La cannella cessa di essere utilizzata nei piatti salati e da quel momento in avanti verrà riservata solo alle preparazioni dolci.

Delle antiche spezie verranno mantenute, e comunque in misura minore, solo il pepe, il chiodo di garofano e la noce moscata.

I viaggiatori francesi complained even before 1650, in their stories, " dishes blacks spices and saffron " that met from Spain to Poland. At

oriental spices, cooking in the treaties, they are replaced local flavors: herbs, but not mint and hyssop, allium such as onions, shallots and chives in Spain, all types of mushrooms when it also began the technique of cultivation, Provence and condiments such as capers, anchovies, lemons and bitter oranges imported from Liguria (the famous Seville oranges).

From spicy and sour taste of the Middle Ages, the vinegar is used a bit 'all over the world before you go to taste preference for fat sauces and seasonings with butter becomes the fat of fine cuisine. The flavor is masked by an excessive exaltation of the seasonings you switch your flavor of each dish.

An illustrative example is what he wrote in 1654 Nicholas de Bonnefois, regarding the preparation and cooking of foods: "Try much as you can to diversify and distinguish by the taste and shape what you do to prepare: a Potage Santa soup is a good bourgeois, well-fed good meat choices, and restricted in a little stock, no ground beef, mushrooms, spices or other ingredients, but that is simple, because it brings the name of health, that the cabbage has all the smell of cabbage, that the porri del porro, alle rape della rapa e così le altre, e vedrete che i vostri Signori staranno meglio, saranno sempre di buon appetito, e che voi ne riceverete gli elogi. Quanto ho detto sulle Minestre, intendo che valga per tutto, e che sia la norma per tutto ciò che si mangia ”.

In un altro trattato, all’inizio del capitolo relativo al manzo, nella Cuisinière bourgeoise , Menon scriveva: “ Non entrerò nei dettagli di quella che chiamiamo la carne di scarto . Questa carne è in uso solo presso il popolino, che si ingegna in preparazioni ricche di sale, pepe, aceto, aglio e scalogno per coprirne il gusto insipido ”.

What was refined in earlier centuries, spices and seasonings acids, they become vulgar and vice versa, is left to the taste "strong" and sought instead to "fine and delicate."

made by historians are several hypotheses to explain this radical change of taste, and the almost total abandonment of oriental spices.
The first identifies the decline in the cost of spices the simultaneous decline of the same prestige and nobility, to show off its finesse, turn to other substitutes in place of oriental flavors become banal.
Another hypothesis attributes the decline of interest in spices to the decline of Hippocratic medicine and its diet, that in the seventeenth century entered a long period of decline.

But maybe the explanation is not determined by one factor, whereas in the meantime he was witnessing a global change of mentality in relation to knowledge, worldview, and the perception that European companies had of themselves. The Enlightenment

accelerates the sinking of ancient medicine, ancient beliefs about the production of the humoral body and the benefits of using spices "hot" or "dry" considered effective according to the dietary greek-Arab.

ranged medieval Europe the center of the world in the Middle East, dominated by Islam and since God's land, geographical and political insurmountable barrier to Asia and Africa inside. The Indian Ocean was the world of the unknown and the wonderful, myths and dangers, and Europe absorbed the medieval oriental fairy tales steeped in legends and imaginary monsters.

But since the end of the fifteenth century, the world, for Europe, and expands the boundaries and barriers fall to coincide with the first achievements of the trade routes. Furthermore, with the conquest of America, the economic center moves from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, and the prestige of oriental products starts to suffer a sharp decline. The organization

Indiana and Arabic, which has worked almost continuously for about 4000 years in the Indian Ocean, and has traded spices, but also culture, knowledge, philosophy, ceases suddenly supplanted by a business model all over Europe, and from that point on will dictate the movement of global spices and decree success or failure of this or that spice in the kitchen

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